Part 2: Food
Pan Dulce
My mornings in Oaxaca always began with the same craving: freshly baked pan dulce. I love these in Southern California and whenever I’m in Mexico I absolutely get my fill. These sweet breads, if you’re not familiar, have soft and fluffy texture on the inside but a sweet crunch on the outside. So easy to indulge in daily. Paired with a refreshing chocolate drink (a local staple), made with either water or milk, they made for the perfect breakfast.
Tlayuda
My first tlayuda experience in Oaxaca was nothing short of spectacular. I love Oaxacan food back home, and I’ll usually order one of these if we’re grabbing Oaxacan food here. These large, crispy tortillas are typically topped with cheese, black beans, and your choice of meat. Mine had steak. Plus, the salsa game in Oaxaca is unparalleled – they made it tableside! The combination of flavors and textures in this dish was truly a taste sensation.
Eggplant Tamal
A standout dish at Alfonso was the eggplant tamal, which was bursting with flavor. Made with endemic tomatoes and star nopal, it was a delicious and unique take on a traditional dish. So tangy but so savory. I’ve never had anything like it.
Agua del Dia
Agua del Dia, or water of the day, is a must-have daily drink in Oaxaca, and I tried several different flavors during my visit. Piña, tamarindo, and jamaica were some of my favorites, with the jamaica flavor being particularly refreshing. I think I enjoyed it with 3-4 of my meals.
Pan Dulce de Jamaica
Another pan dulce – but I promise, it’s worth it. This was the pan dulce de jamaica. With its crispy jamaica-infused sweet crust and soft bread underneath, it was a delightful treat that I couldn’t get enough of. I ordered this flavor twice!
Enchiladas del Mole
At La Cocina de Frida, we were treated to enchiladas del mole that were unlike anything I had ever tasted before. Thin and crispy, filled with shredded chicken, and draped with a green mole, they were a delicious combination of flavors and textures. I don’t typically order enchiladas at home but I would if they tasted like these!
Pan Dulce Relleno
Pan dulce a third time? I told you, I love them. But this one was different. A gorgeous pan dulce relleno, filled with fresh crema and berries, was a perfect way to start a morning in Oaxaca. Paired with an espresso, it was a delightful way to wake up and start one of our longer tour days.
Shrimp and Mahi Mahi
At Criollo, we enjoyed a five course, set dinner menu that included a delicious dish of shrimp and mahi mahi doused in their green sauce, accompanied by a fried mushroom and a side of bread made with fermented pulque.
Torta con Jamon
A street food favorite that we couldn’t get enough of was the torta con jamon. Made with mayo, avocado, salsa, and Oaxacan cheese, it was a delicious and satisfying meal that I could have enjoyed on several occasions. We asked the locals where there favorite food was, locally and they steered us to this spot. I still have dreams of this torta.
Mole de Autor
Our final night in Oaxaca was a true culinary highlight, as we were treated to a tasting of different moles by an award-winning chef. The mole de autor, a fruit-based mole that won her the competition, was paired with chicken and rice and was an absolute delight to my taste buds.


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